https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway? seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then just
refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
Generally follow service intervals but do not believe in lifetime oil
as the manufacturer's idea of a car's lifetime will differ
significantly from your own.
A friend of mine, fellow teacher, had an early Range Rover. He modded
it to full fuel injection (ex Holden V8) because he hated carbs. He
saw carbs as primitive pieces of shit - I tend to agree. Anyway, this
Rangie saw, quite literally, every bit of Australia he could drive it
to. Every year he went right round the country during the Christmas
hols and at other times as well. And every year, after his trip, he
would strip down both diffs and rebuild them with new bearings. This prevented out of mesh conditions since it is the bearings, and the
preload, that maintains the perfect mesh - and hypoid diffs need
perfect mesh in order to remain running silent. The Diffs on those
early Rangies were noted for failures but in the entire time he had
and used that Rangie he never ever broke a diff. Maintenance is good. Maintenance appropriate to the vehicle's use is better.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then just
refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped the
oil up
Generally follow service intervals but do not believe in lifetime oil
as the manufacturer's idea of a car's lifetime will differ
significantly from your own.
A friend of mine, fellow teacher, had an early Range Rover. He modded
it to full fuel injection (ex Holden V8) because he hated carbs. He
saw carbs as primitive pieces of shit - I tend to agree. Anyway, this
Rangie saw, quite literally, every bit of Australia he could drive it
to. Every year he went right round the country during the Christmas
hols and at other times as well. And every year, after his trip, he
would strip down both diffs and rebuild them with new bearings. This
prevented out of mesh conditions since it is the bearings, and the
preload, that maintains the perfect mesh - and hypoid diffs need
perfect mesh in order to remain running silent. The Diffs on those
early Rangies were noted for failures but in the entire time he had
and used that Rangie he never ever broke a diff. Maintenance is good.
Maintenance appropriate to the vehicle's use is better.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:That's because axle seals and diff seals tended to be shitty. These
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then
just refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped
the oil up
days not so much. Diffs used to have a drain plug too, then some cars started doing away with that when the concept of lifetime oil came out.
Generally follow service intervals but do not believe in lifetime
oil as the manufacturer's idea of a car's lifetime will differ
significantly from your own.
A friend of mine, fellow teacher, had an early Range Rover. He
modded it to full fuel injection (ex Holden V8) because he hated
carbs. He saw carbs as primitive pieces of shit - I tend to agree.
Anyway, this Rangie saw, quite literally, every bit of Australia he
could drive it to. Every year he went right round the country during
the Christmas hols and at other times as well. And every year, after
his trip, he would strip down both diffs and rebuild them with new
bearings. This prevented out of mesh conditions since it is the
bearings, and the preload, that maintains the perfect mesh - and
hypoid diffs need perfect mesh in order to remain running silent.
The Diffs on those early Rangies were noted for failures but in the
entire time he had and used that Rangie he never ever broke a diff.
Maintenance is good. Maintenance appropriate to the vehicle's use is
better.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway? seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped the
oil up
https://ibb.co/KyBkyG6
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway? seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then just
refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped the
oil up
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway? seems
to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you drain
the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered normal
sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then just refill
with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
Generally follow service intervals but do not believe in lifetime oil as
the manufacturer's idea of a car's lifetime will differ significantly
from your own.
A friend of mine, fellow teacher, had an early Range Rover. He modded it
to full fuel injection (ex Holden V8) because he hated carbs. He saw
carbs as primitive pieces of shit - I tend to agree. Anyway, this Rangie saw, quite literally, every bit of Australia he could drive it to. Every year he went right round the country during the Christmas hols and at
other times as well. And every year, after his trip, he would strip down both diffs and rebuild them with new bearings. This prevented out of
mesh conditions since it is the bearings, and the preload, that
maintains the perfect mesh - and hypoid diffs need perfect mesh in order
to remain running silent. The Diffs on those early Rangies were noted
for failures but in the entire time he had and used that Rangie he never ever broke a diff. Maintenance is good. Maintenance appropriate to the vehicle's use is better.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway? seems
to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
Good idea to change the oil but the cleaning with brake cleaner isn't necessary.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then just
refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped
the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then just
refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped
the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
Good idea to change the oil but the cleaning with brake cleaner isn't necessary.
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then
just refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped
the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the diff, others saying it's ok.
there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts.
It won't take long for surface rust to form if the vehicle is not
driven straight after the service, say if it's left overnight before
being driven. Brake clean cools the steel which means water
condensates on the metal parts.
As to how often, well it's best to follow the service interval. What
kind of vehicle and how it's driven comes into it as well. Diffs have breathers and it is possible for water to enter diffs when four wheel driving through deep water, that's obviously not good and so those
would need more frequent oil changes. OTOH I've known cars to do
500,000km+ without a diff oil change.
˙is diff servicing necessary anyway? seems to me there's no
'servicing' just cleaning.
(ps: if anyone can't see I can save and host it)
Daryl wrote:
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then
just refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped
the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
how often? but FWD cars don't have a diff of course
Daryl wrote:
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary anyway?
seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear the
brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then
just refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just topped
the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
how often? but FWD cars don't have a diff of course
Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts.
didn't seem like a good idea to me, or necessary
It won't take long for surface rust to form if the vehicle is not
driven straight after the service, say if it's left overnight before
being driven. Brake clean cools the steel which means water
condensates on the metal parts.
As to how often, well it's best to follow the service interval. What
kind of vehicle and how it's driven comes into it as well. Diffs have
breathers and it is possible for water to enter diffs when four wheel
driving through deep water, that's obviously not good and so those
would need more frequent oil changes. OTOH I've known cars to do
500,000km+ without a diff oil change.
I can't remember if I ever changed diff oil in my RWD cars. maybe I
traded them before it was a scheduled service item?
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to form if
the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel which means
water condensates on the metal parts.
Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts.
didn't seem like a good idea to me, or necessary
Daryl wrote:
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
how often? but FWD cars don't have a diff of course
On 17/3/2026 5:01 pm, Axel wrote:
Daryl wrote:Yes, they do, but it is incorporated into a *transaxle*. When you
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside
the diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary
anyway? seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear
the brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you
drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered
normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then
just refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just
topped the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
how often? but FWD cars don't have a diff of course
change the diff oil in a transaxle, you are usually, but not always, changing the gearbox oil at the same time. East/west layouts usually
use the same oil, north/south layouts often separate the diff and
final drive into separate chambers due to the specific EP oil
requirements of hypoid final drives. This applies primarily to autos
and there was a recent discussion on this here.
On 17/03/2026 6:22 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish. I have diff centres here that have been sitting for a
number of years that were cleaned of all oils once they were removed and their isn't the slightest bit of rust on them. Expose them to moisture
and they will rust. Leaving them sitting in a housing overnight that is
half full of oil will do absolutely nothing.
Apparently you know as much about this stuff as you do about
carburettors, OBD2 systems and Windscreens :)
Xeno wrote:
On 17/3/2026 5:01 pm, Axel wrote:
Daryl wrote:Yes, they do, but it is incorporated into a *transaxle*. When you
On 16/3/2026 9:17 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 16/3/2026 7:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside
the diff, others saying it's ok. is diff servicing necessary
anyway? seems to me there's no 'servicing' just cleaning.
If he is not removing and dismantling the diff, it would appear
the brake cleaner is a waste of time.
Changing to oil really doesn't require the full clean out. If you >>>>>> drain the oil and there's no metal beyond what could be considered >>>>>> normal sitting in the drain pan or the bottom of the banjo, then
just refill with the recommended grade of oil and you're done.
cars I had in my younger days had a filler plug, and you just
topped the oil up
They also usually had a drain plug, drain the oil and refill is very
good insurance and costs very little.
how often? but FWD cars don't have a diff of course
change the diff oil in a transaxle, you are usually, but not always,
changing the gearbox oil at the same time. East/west layouts usually
use the same oil, north/south layouts often separate the diff and
final drive into separate chambers due to the specific EP oil
requirements of hypoid final drives. This applies primarily to autos
and there was a recent discussion on this here.
I assumed the gearbox oil took care of everything except the engine of course, lol
On 17/03/2026 6:27 pm, Axel wrote:
Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts.
didn't seem like a good idea to me, or necessary
It's not a *bad* idea Felix. It won't hurt anything.
On 17/03/2026 6:22 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish.
On 17/03/2026 5:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish.
Afraid not.
As I stated, brake clean cools the steel, condensation forms and condensation and air forms rust. That's basic chemistry.
It can certainly form quickly under certain circumstances.
So the solution is simple. Never use brake clean on diffs as there are
no positives. As to your bullshit about storing diff centres without any protection at all well that's extremely bad practice and a definite no-
no in the real world.
What you do in la-la land has no real world relevance sonny.
On 18/03/2026 12:57 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/03/2026 5:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish.
Afraid not.
As I stated, brake clean cools the steel, condensation forms and
condensation and air forms rust. That's basic chemistry.
You are fucking clueless :)
It can certainly form quickly under certain circumstances.
It can under the *right* circumstances. Sitting overnight in a housing
half full of oil is not one of them :)
So the solution is simple. Never use brake clean on diffs as there are
no positives. As to your bullshit about storing diff centres without
any protection at all well that's extremely bad practice and a
definite no- no in the real world.
And yet if you had any experience and walked into any differential shop,
you would see clean ring and pinion sets that have been sitting for
*months* with no surface contamination whatsoever.
What you do in la-la land has no real world relevance sonny.
You have no fucking idea and make that obvious each time you post. This
is precisely why you fit mudflaps and snorkels for a living and are
*not* paying off houses repairing ECU's :)
On 18/3/2026 1:27 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 18/03/2026 12:57 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/03/2026 5:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes
the oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface
rust to form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the
service, say if it's left overnight before being driven. Brake
clean cools the steel which means water condensates on the metal
parts.
Utter rubbish.
Afraid not.
As I stated, brake clean cools the steel, condensation forms and
condensation and air forms rust. That's basic chemistry.
You are fucking clueless :)
It can certainly form quickly under certain circumstances.
It can under the *right* circumstances. Sitting overnight in a
housing half full of oil is not one of them :)
So the solution is simple. Never use brake clean on diffs as there
are no positives. As to your bullshit about storing diff centres
without any protection at all well that's extremely bad practice and
a definite no- no in the real world.
And yet if you had any experience and walked into any differential
shop, you would see clean ring and pinion sets that have been sitting
for *months* with no surface contamination whatsoever.
Nope, at an absolute minimum they should be stored with a film of
light oil spray on all *machined* surfaces.
That oil film should be rejuvenated at regular intervals because, once
the film breaks down, the oxygen in the air combined with moisture condensing at dew point will eventually contact the base metal
allowing corrosion to form.
A good case in point. I once recovered a final drive assembly from a
wreck that had been sitting in a garage for years. I was disappointed
since any metal above the oil level in the diff was, quite literally,
eaten away while the metal bathed in the oil was like new. The final
drive assembly had never been immersed in water but, unfortunately,
the gears had never been rotated either so what was above the oil
stayed there slowly rusting away. All it would have taken was a little effort every now and then to rotate the gears. Even once a year would
have been sufficient since hypoid gear oil is very resistant to being
rubbed off. Hypoid gear oil is, after all, an EP oil.
Xeno wrote:
Nope, at an absolute minimum they should be stored with a film of
light oil spray on all *machined* surfaces.
yes that's what prevents rust. even new stuff in storage would be
protected somehow, either like that, or in plastic or boxes or whatever
https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx4-lanox-lanolin-lubricant/
On 18/03/2026 2:28 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
Nope, at an absolute minimum they should be stored with a film of
light oil spray on all *machined* surfaces.
yes that's what prevents rust. even new stuff in storage would be
protected somehow, either like that, or in plastic or boxes or whatever
You don't use "oil" Felix, as in engine oil or similar, because it
offers very little in the way of anti corrosive protection. It's a lubricant. Not a protectant. If you want to protect machined surfaces
from moisture/rust, then one of the best treatments is Lanolin based products. Most of the big name brands make such a product, but my
preferred option is a product called "MX4" made by Inox. It's an anto corrision spray made specifically for the task. Generally anything made
for a marine environment works well.
https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx4-lanox-lanolin-lubricant/
As for long term storage, Cosmoline used to be common. Cosmoline is a petroleum based wax that is normally applied by brush or the parts are dipped in it, and it dries into a waterproof "wax" type layer that completely seals components from the elements. When I restored my WWII
Jeep I bought a lot of surplus parts from all around the world that were made in the 1940's that were coated in the stuff, and they were as new
once it was removed.
As far as storage of parts goes, as long as they're kept dry and out of areas with vastly changing temperatures then they're fine. As I said I
have diff centres here that have been in dry clean storage for years,
and they're perfectly fine. Leaving a diff gearset overnight that's been cleaned with brake clean is not going to affect it at all, and to
suggest it will is an utterly nonsensical comment that only someone with zero experience could ever make :)
On 17/3/2026 8:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 17/03/2026 6:22 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish. I have diff centres here that have been sitting for a
number of years that were cleaned of all oils once they were removed
and their isn't the slightest bit of rust on them. Expose them to
moisture and they will rust. Leaving them sitting in a housing
overnight that is
Heard about humidity Darren? You don't need to leave them out in the
rain to have moisture on them. ??Without a protective film of oil or
grease the bare metal (usually carbon or alloy steel) is directly
exposed to oxygen and moisture, leading to oxidation, which is commonly known as rust.
The moisture in the air acts as a catalyst and high air humidity can
trigger corrosion within weeks. The the humidity exceeds 70% it may take only days to appear.
Condensation, that's the big issue here. Temperature changes ,such as overnight cooling, causes the moisture in the air to condense on the
colder gear surfaces. This *liquid* water trapped on the gear's metal surfaces triggers rust.
Lubricants act as a barrier preventing contact between the machined
metal surfaces and the condensate and that prevents *oxidation*. Wash
that surface lubricant off those gears and you effectively prime the
surface for corrosion. It is why any new gearsets purchased always come
with a rust preventative surface coating
half full of oil will do absolutely nothing.
Spin the gears around and coat the gears and bearings with a fine layer
of lubricant and you're done. repeat that process now and then if the vehicle isn't being used just to recoat where the gears are above the
oil level . Wash those gears and bearings with an evaporating solvent leaving no protective layer and you are condemning those gearsets to a
rusty end. Even the slightest corrosive etching will eat away at the
surface creating pits and reddish brown stains. The roughened, pitted surfaces, known in the trade as macropitting, can cause noise and
vibration leading to misalignment and eventual gear fracture. Oh, did I mention, those rust particles will act as abrasive contaminants and you
know what abrasives do to finely machined components. This will lead to damage in related components in other parts of the system.
Apparently you know as much about this stuff as you do about
carburettors, OBD2 systems and Windscreens :)
Your above view on leaving unlubed diff centres laying around shows just
how little you really know about the automotive trade and, in
particular, the auto machining trade.
You, without a doubt, prove the need for a *minimum general education* standard for entry into any of the engineering trades. FFS, year 9
passes in English, Science and Maths isn't exactly onerous but you
couldn't even pass that. That's why you have no trade qualifications,You have clearly shown you haven't a clue on simple scientific concepts like humidity and oxidation that underpin most engineering matters.
While you're at it, look up dew point. It is a critical piece of science
and explains why you *will* get moisture condensing on your gears even inside your *tin* shed.
On 17/03/2026 10:03 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 17/3/2026 8:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 17/03/2026 6:22 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish. I have diff centres here that have been sitting for a
number of years that were cleaned of all oils once they were removed
and their isn't the slightest bit of rust on them. Expose them to
moisture and they will rust. Leaving them sitting in a housing
overnight that is
Heard about humidity Darren? You don't need to leave them out in the
rain to have moisture on them. ??Without a protective film of oil or
grease the bare metal (usually carbon or alloy steel) is directly
exposed to oxygen and moisture, leading to oxidation, which is
commonly known as rust.
The moisture in the air acts as a catalyst and high air humidity can
trigger corrosion within weeks. The the humidity exceeds 70% it may
take only days to appear.
Condensation, that's the big issue here. Temperature changes ,such as
overnight cooling, causes the moisture in the air to condense on the
colder gear surfaces. This *liquid* water trapped on the gear's metal
surfaces triggers rust.
Depends on where you are.
Lubricants act as a barrier preventing contact between the machined
metal surfaces and the condensate and that prevents *oxidation*. Wash
that surface lubricant off those gears and you effectively prime the
surface for corrosion. It is why any new gearsets purchased always
come with a rust preventative surface coating
Obviously you're the only one here who would have known that.
half full of oil will do absolutely nothing.
Spin the gears around and coat the gears and bearings with a fine
layer of lubricant and you're done. repeat that process now and then
if the vehicle isn't being used just to recoat where the gears are
above the oil level . Wash those gears and bearings with an
evaporating solvent leaving no protective layer and you are condemning
those gearsets to a rusty end. Even the slightest corrosive etching
will eat away at the surface creating pits and reddish brown stains.
The roughened, pitted surfaces, known in the trade as macropitting,
can cause noise and vibration leading to misalignment and eventual
gear fracture. Oh, did I mention, those rust particles will act as
abrasive contaminants and you know what abrasives do to finely
machined components. This will lead to damage in related components in
other parts of the system.
Secret knowledge only known to the very few.
Apparently you know as much about this stuff as you do about
carburettors, OBD2 systems and Windscreens :)
Your above view on leaving unlubed diff centres laying around shows
just how little you really know about the automotive trade and, in
particular, the auto machining trade.
You, without a doubt, prove the need for a *minimum general education*
standard for entry into any of the engineering trades. FFS, year 9
passes in English, Science and Maths isn't exactly onerous but you
couldn't even pass that. That's why you have no trade
qualifications,You have clearly shown you haven't a clue on simple
scientific concepts like humidity and oxidation that underpin most
engineering matters.
Standard xeno filler.
While you're at it, look up dew point. It is a critical piece of
science and explains why you *will* get moisture condensing on your
gears even inside your *tin* shed.
Critical science eh? Who would have thought it.
On 17/03/2026 5:46 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 17/03/2026 6:27 pm, Axel wrote:
Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the
diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts.
didn't seem like a good idea to me, or necessary
It's not a *bad* idea Felix. It won't hurt anything.
Surface rust can form as I mentioned and if you think that isn't a bad
thing just go back to eating your play-doh like a good boy.
On 18/03/2026 12:57 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/03/2026 5:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes the
oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface rust to
form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the service, say if
it's left overnight before being driven. Brake clean cools the steel
which means water condensates on the metal parts.
Utter rubbish.
Afraid not.
As I stated, brake clean cools the steel, condensation forms and
condensation and air forms rust. That's basic chemistry.
You are fucking clueless :)
It can certainly form quickly under certain circumstances.
It can under the *right* circumstances. Sitting overnight in a housing
half full of oil is not one of them :)
So the solution is simple. Never use brake clean on diffs as there are
no positives. As to your bullshit about storing diff centres without
any protection at all well that's extremely bad practice and a
definite no- no in the real world.
And yet if you had any experience and walked into any differential shop,
you would see clean ring and pinion sets that have been sitting for
*months* with no surface contamination whatsoever.
On 18/03/2026 2:28 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
Nope, at an absolute minimum they should be stored with a film of
light oil spray on all *machined* surfaces.
yes that's what prevents rust. even new stuff in storage would be
protected somehow, either like that, or in plastic or boxes or whatever
You don't
On 18/3/2026 3:45 pm, keithr0 wrote:
On 17/03/2026 10:03 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 17/3/2026 8:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 17/03/2026 6:22 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside the >>>>>> diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes
the oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface
rust to form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the
service, say if it's left overnight before being driven. Brake
clean cools the steel which means water condensates on the metal
parts.
Utter rubbish. I have diff centres here that have been sitting for a
number of years that were cleaned of all oils once they were removed
and their isn't the slightest bit of rust on them. Expose them to
moisture and they will rust. Leaving them sitting in a housing
overnight that is
Heard about humidity Darren? You don't need to leave them out in the
rain to have moisture on them. ??Without a protective film of oil or
grease the bare metal (usually carbon or alloy steel) is directly
exposed to oxygen and moisture, leading to oxidation, which is
commonly known as rust.
The moisture in the air acts as a catalyst and high air humidity can
trigger corrosion within weeks. The the humidity exceeds 70% it may
take only days to appear.
Condensation, that's the big issue here. Temperature changes ,such as
overnight cooling, causes the moisture in the air to condense on the
colder gear surfaces. This *liquid* water trapped on the gear's metal
surfaces triggers rust.
Depends on where you are.
The only places that don't generally have a condensing dew point is the desert and that is not always the case. Note the red earth in the centre
of Australia? That's iron that has oxidised. In the desert.
Lubricants act as a barrier preventing contact between the machined
metal surfaces and the condensate and that prevents *oxidation*. Wash
that surface lubricant off those gears and you effectively prime the
surface for corrosion. It is why any new gearsets purchased always
come with a rust preventative surface coating
Obviously you're the only one here who would have known that.
What? Didn't you do *science* at high school? Chemistry? Didn't you
learn about the oxidising process? It's a chemical reaction Keith.
This is why they have an entry standard in apprenticeships. This basic
stuff is necessary so that it need not be repeated during an
apprenticeship.
half full of oil will do absolutely nothing.
Spin the gears around and coat the gears and bearings with a fine
layer of lubricant and you're done. repeat that process now and then
if the vehicle isn't being used just to recoat where the gears are
above the oil level . Wash those gears and bearings with an
evaporating solvent leaving no protective layer and you are
condemning those gearsets to a rusty end. Even the slightest
corrosive etching will eat away at the surface creating pits and
reddish brown stains. The roughened, pitted surfaces, known in the
trade as macropitting, can cause noise and vibration leading to
misalignment and eventual gear fracture. Oh, did I mention, those
rust particles will act as abrasive contaminants and you know what
abrasives do to finely machined components. This will lead to damage
in related components in other parts of the system.
Secret knowledge only known to the very few.
Known by anyone who has been an apprentice mechanic.
Science critical to the point I made!
Apparently you know as much about this stuff as you do about
carburettors, OBD2 systems and Windscreens :)
Your above view on leaving unlubed diff centres laying around shows
just how little you really know about the automotive trade and, in
particular, the auto machining trade.
You, without a doubt, prove the need for a *minimum general
education* standard for entry into any of the engineering trades.
FFS, year 9 passes in English, Science and Maths isn't exactly
onerous but you couldn't even pass that. That's why you have no trade
qualifications,You have clearly shown you haven't a clue on simple
scientific concepts like humidity and oxidation that underpin most
engineering matters.
Standard xeno filler.
While you're at it, look up dew point. It is a critical piece of
science and explains why you *will* get moisture condensing on your
gears even inside your *tin* shed.
Critical science eh? Who would have thought it.
On 18/03/2026 10:27 am, Noddy wrote:
On 18/03/2026 12:57 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 17/03/2026 5:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes
the oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface
rust to form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the
service, say if it's left overnight before being driven. Brake
clean cools the steel which means water condensates on the metal
parts.
Utter rubbish.
Afraid not.
As I stated, brake clean cools the steel, condensation forms and
condensation and air forms rust. That's basic chemistry.
You are fucking clueless :)
It can certainly form quickly under certain circumstances.
It can under the *right* circumstances. Sitting overnight in a housing
half full of oil is not one of them :)
Nice strawman, but nobody said anything about sitting in a housing half
full of oil.
So the solution is simple. Never use brake clean on diffs as there
are no positives. As to your bullshit about storing diff centres
without any protection at all well that's extremely bad practice and
a definite no- no in the real world.
And yet if you had any experience and walked into any differential
shop, you would see clean ring and pinion sets that have been sitting
for *months* with no surface contamination whatsoever.
They are *always* coated with light oil or a rust preventative to
prevent rust forming.
Always.
On 18/03/2026 11:56 am, Noddy wrote:
On 18/03/2026 2:28 pm, Axel wrote:
Xeno wrote:
Nope, at an absolute minimum they should be stored with a film of
light oil spray on all *machined* surfaces.
yes that's what prevents rust. even new stuff in storage would be
protected somehow, either like that, or in plastic or boxes or whatever
You don't
Oh, you don't need to use anything he said but realising he's just made
a spectacular fool of himself he Googles an answer and becomes the
instant expert on protecting surfaces from rust.
You're laughably incompetent an inherently dishonest with it.
On 18/03/2026 1:08 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 18/3/2026 3:45 pm, keithr0 wrote:
On 17/03/2026 10:03 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 17/3/2026 8:45 pm, Noddy wrote:
On 17/03/2026 6:22 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 16/03/2026 4:43 pm, Axel wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/epdLk195PaM
some ppl saying he shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean inside
the diff, others saying it's ok.
It's not OK. For one it achieves nothing and secondly it removes
the oil film on the metal parts. It won't take long for surface
rust to form if the vehicle is not driven straight after the
service, say if it's left overnight before being driven. Brake
clean cools the steel which means water condensates on the metal
parts.
Utter rubbish. I have diff centres here that have been sitting for
a number of years that were cleaned of all oils once they were
removed and their isn't the slightest bit of rust on them. Expose
them to moisture and they will rust. Leaving them sitting in a
housing overnight that is
Heard about humidity Darren? You don't need to leave them out in the
rain to have moisture on them. ??Without a protective film of oil or
grease the bare metal (usually carbon or alloy steel) is directly
exposed to oxygen and moisture, leading to oxidation, which is
commonly known as rust.
The moisture in the air acts as a catalyst and high air humidity can
trigger corrosion within weeks. The the humidity exceeds 70% it may
take only days to appear.
Condensation, that's the big issue here. Temperature changes ,such
as overnight cooling, causes the moisture in the air to condense on
the colder gear surfaces. This *liquid* water trapped on the gear's
metal surfaces triggers rust.
Depends on where you are.
The only places that don't generally have a condensing dew point is
the desert and that is not always the case. Note the red earth in the
centre of Australia? That's iron that has oxidised. In the desert.
Lubricants act as a barrier preventing contact between the machined
metal surfaces and the condensate and that prevents *oxidation*.
Wash that surface lubricant off those gears and you effectively
prime the surface for corrosion. It is why any new gearsets
purchased always come with a rust preventative surface coating
Obviously you're the only one here who would have known that.
What? Didn't you do *science* at high school? Chemistry? Didn't you
learn about the oxidising process? It's a chemical reaction Keith.
This is why they have an entry standard in apprenticeships. This basic
stuff is necessary so that it need not be repeated during an
apprenticeship.
half full of oil will do absolutely nothing.
Spin the gears around and coat the gears and bearings with a fine
layer of lubricant and you're done. repeat that process now and then
if the vehicle isn't being used just to recoat where the gears are
above the oil level . Wash those gears and bearings with an
evaporating solvent leaving no protective layer and you are
condemning those gearsets to a rusty end. Even the slightest
corrosive etching will eat away at the surface creating pits and
reddish brown stains. The roughened, pitted surfaces, known in the
trade as macropitting, can cause noise and vibration leading to
misalignment and eventual gear fracture. Oh, did I mention, those
rust particles will act as abrasive contaminants and you know what
abrasives do to finely machined components. This will lead to damage
in related components in other parts of the system.
Secret knowledge only known to the very few.
Known by anyone who has been an apprentice mechanic.
Science critical to the point I made!
Apparently you know as much about this stuff as you do about
carburettors, OBD2 systems and Windscreens :)
Your above view on leaving unlubed diff centres laying around shows
just how little you really know about the automotive trade and, in
particular, the auto machining trade.
You, without a doubt, prove the need for a *minimum general
education* standard for entry into any of the engineering trades.
FFS, year 9 passes in English, Science and Maths isn't exactly
onerous but you couldn't even pass that. That's why you have no
trade qualifications,You have clearly shown you haven't a clue on
simple scientific concepts like humidity and oxidation that underpin
most engineering matters.
Standard xeno filler.
While you're at it, look up dew point. It is a critical piece of
science and explains why you *will* get moisture condensing on your
gears even inside your *tin* shed.
Critical science eh? Who would have thought it.
It's interesting that he attacks the science but fights to protect a clueless fraud...
On 18/03/2026 11:56 am, Noddy wrote:
yes that's what prevents rust. even new stuff in storage would be
protected somehow, either like that, or in plastic or boxes or whatever
You don't
Oh, you don't need to use anything he said but realising he's just made
a spectacular fool of himself he Googles an answer and becomes the
instant expert on protecting surfaces from rust.
You're laughably incompetent an inherently dishonest with it.
On 18/03/2026 8:31 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 18/03/2026 11:56 am, Noddy wrote:
yes that's what prevents rust. even new stuff in storage would beYou don't
protected somehow, either like that, or in plastic or boxes or whatever >>>
Oh, you don't need to use anything he said but realising he's just
made a spectacular fool of himself he Googles an answer and becomes
the instant expert on protecting surfaces from rust.
You're laughably incompetent an inherently dishonest with it.
*Jesus*. If you were *half* as smart as you like to think you are you'd
be fucking dangerous.
Let me educate you.
I *don't* put any kind of protective coating on things like differential gears unless they're going to be in storage for a *very* long time, and
for the simple reason being that they're hardened and hardened high
quality steel is significantly more resistant to corrosion than regular plain mild steel or cast iron. This is precisely why when you buy a new
ring and pinion set it comes coated in nothing other than a phosphate
layer designed to assist with break in.
Had you *not* spent your life banging air filter elements on a benchtop
you would be aware of this.
What I *do* use protective spray on is machined surfaces on tools and equipment which are generally *not* hardened, and thanks to the fact
that they're mostly cast iron they tend to discolour quite quickly.
Things like lathe chucks and mill vices can start to turn brown in as
little as a week if not kept covered with an effective anti corrosion coating. That's why all my chucks, vices, machines and other various machined components get treated with a liberal dose of MX4 when they're
not in use.
Consider yourself educated, although I don't know what good it would do
you. It's not like you'd ever be in a position to know.
| Sysop: | Jacob Catayoc |
|---|---|
| Location: | Pasay City, Metro Manila, Philippines |
| Users: | 5 |
| Nodes: | 4 (0 / 4) |
| Uptime: | 116:08:43 |
| Calls: | 125 |
| Calls today: | 125 |
| Files: | 489 |
| D/L today: |
856 files (365M bytes) |
| Messages: | 76,427 |
| Posted today: | 26 |