• BIOS boot problem

    From crasso@3:633/10 to All on Monday, August 03, 2026 11:12:56
    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Paul@3:633/10 to All on Monday, August 03, 2026 15:51:06
    On Mon, 8/3/2026 11:12 AM, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:
    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?


    The two motherboards here that failed, it looked like maybe an
    onboard regulator for a chipset voltage, took them out.

    On one of them, I somehow figured out that "sleep" wasn't
    good for it. Two months went by, I didn't sleep it, it
    was running OK. Then I forgot, selected sleep... and it
    didn't come back and it would not POST either. I'd killed
    it, through stupidity.

    If the designer of it, was in the room, there's not
    even a guarantee the designer can debug it. One thing
    that helps, is to use the DFI (Diamond Flower) technique
    of soldering scope-points to the board, and, um, labeling
    them. Then you can check all the voltages on the Southbridge
    and see if anything there is out of spec. No other brand
    really adds anything useful for monitoring in that way.

    There is an extensive back-feed network on the board. These
    are custom designed, and consist of bailing wire and binder
    twine. The purpose of this, is to prevent current flows
    from one subsystem, keeping another subsystem awake and
    preventing it from "cycling" properly. The board has
    to be able to actuate its reset circuit just before POST
    and so on. The RTC and CMOS RAM area of the Southbridge,
    sit in a "well" powered by the battery, and transmission
    gates are used in series with signals, to prevent
    current flows out of the well and into other stuff.

    Those are some examples of squidgy parts of boards.
    I have trouble even reading the logic in the back-flow
    prevention circuits. I'd need to go node by node, to help
    me figure out how the damn thing works.

    The BIOS chip can become flaky. Maybe it can be re-flashed.
    Parts of the BIOS are actually write-able by the BIOS,
    like the DMI/ESCD, and while NOR flash can take a lot of
    writes, maybe at some point their lifespan is exceeded.
    The main BIOS module is not written all that many times.
    So it can be a candidate for being re-flashed.

    But a lot of times, the problem is something at a low
    level. With digital logic, it's almost never an internal
    gate. The problems are I/O pads and the copper wires.
    Copper PCBs are protected by passivation, like HASL
    (Hot Air Solder Leveling), to put a layer of bulletproof
    metal over the copper. Computer boards are half ounce copper
    on signal layers, and the boards really aren't all that good
    of a quality. The boards at work, they were good enough
    to "stop a bullet". It was hard to lift a foil on a board
    at work. Foils come off computer boards, with hardly
    any effort at all (I changed out a voltage regulator
    on the 440BX to make it Tualatin-compatible and lifted
    a foil AND I WAS BEING CAREFUL!). Not one of my finer
    moments, but the foil I lifted didn't do anything
    so lifting it was not a problem. I just hate bad
    workmanship like that.

    If you're in the market for a new motherboard, remember
    that component size has dropped. They put 0402 and 0201
    on these boards. Even a tiny "bump" of a PCB while you
    are sliding it into place, can tear an R or a C off the
    board (these are resistors and ceramic caps near the
    edge of the board). This means, when selecting a computer case
    to accept a modern board, there can't be ANY barriers in
    the way. Like that big square bar that goes across
    the case, that's going to cause handling problems as you
    try to drop the board (gently) into place.

    My first Windows PC build, it had the right idea. I don't
    even know the brand of computer case. The outside skin was
    just awful (the machine hasn't had the skin on it for
    decades now). But the inside, they were geniuses.
    There is no bar across the middle of the case. The
    lower bays are small enough, you can put a full length
    PCIe video card in there (and the designers of that case,
    didn't even know how long video cards would eventually become).
    The motherboard tray removes at the back, which allows you
    to fit the PCB onto the tray, rotate the tray into place,
    do up the screws on the back. The case does a lot of the
    right things. But the outside of it is a disaster, and that's
    where all the clueless mistakes are, is on the outside.

    An old fashioned TV repair man, could likely take a stab at
    your Abit, IF he had a schematic. People in the repair business,
    they can figure out some amount of how it works. But if you
    were debugging the backfeed protection (which would make
    for "flaky" behaviors), you really really need a schematic
    for that. It's just too hard to trace signals for that,
    and make sense of the responses.

    Some failures can be caused by dirt and moisture
    near high impedance circuits. I'll leave it to you
    to decide if the case is super clean, or it looks
    like one of my cases. It's unlikely to be a tin whisker,
    as tin/lead alloy doesn't grow whiskers. It generally
    takes pure tin to do that.

    Checking the voltages is where I would start, but this
    is only practical if someone marked them and left pads
    for them. Diamond Flower soldered scope-points onto their
    pads, and that was the pinnacle of assistance to debug,
    was having a feature like that. But the cost-reduction
    staff at the company, won't put up with that, and the
    next board, those have to come off.

    If the Southbridge was an ICH4, those can definitely
    blow out (latchup/USB). The ICH5 (I lost one), may have a
    similar problem but we never got even one web page
    confirming that. One motherboard company was brave
    enough to warn us about ICH4. Southbridges use
    five different voltage supplies, and bringing those
    up in the wrong sequence, can damage your SB/PCH.
    So not only must the onboard voltage regulators perform their
    function, their temporal behavior also matters. To be watching
    stuff like this, would take a four channel scope (which
    was standard on a bench at work).

    There are plenty of fault modes, a shitload of signals.
    As an engineer, I always marvel at how long these things
    run and that they don't fail sooner.

    Paul


    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Shadow@3:633/10 to All on Monday, August 03, 2026 17:06:54
    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 11:12:56 -0400, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:

    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    Dunno if BIOS software can suffer from Bit Rot. If it can,
    maybe, just maybe re-flashing with a good image could correct it.
    Paul probably knows...
    []'s
    --
    Don't be evil - Google 2004
    We have a new policy - Google 2012
    Google Fuchsia - 2021

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Paul@3:633/10 to All on Monday, August 03, 2026 17:29:27
    On Mon, 8/3/2026 4:06 PM, Shadow wrote:
    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 11:12:56 -0400, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:

    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    Dunno if BIOS software can suffer from Bit Rot. If it can,
    maybe, just maybe re-flashing with a good image could correct it.
    Paul probably knows...
    []'s
    --
    Don't be evil - Google 2004
    We have a new policy - Google 2012
    Google Fuchsia - 2021


    I think the main BIOS block has a checksum.

    The block that starts before the main BIOS
    block, checks the checksum of the main one,
    before jumping to it.

    Paul


    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Shadow@3:633/10 to All on Monday, August 03, 2026 20:32:06
    On Mon, 3 Aug 2026 17:29:27 -0400, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    On Mon, 8/3/2026 4:06 PM, Shadow wrote:
    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 11:12:56 -0400, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:

    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    Dunno if BIOS software can suffer from Bit Rot. If it can,
    maybe, just maybe re-flashing with a good image could correct it.
    Paul probably knows...
    []'s


    I think the main BIOS block has a checksum.

    The block that starts before the main BIOS
    block, checks the checksum of the main one,
    before jumping to it.

    Paul

    I've had checksum errors in the past, usually after a
    lightning strike or even a simple power cut. But always remedied by
    "loading setup defaults".
    Haven't seen it since I got a no-break.
    Didn't realize there was a checksum for the flashable part of
    the BIOS before the checksum for the user's choices.
    []'s
    --
    Don't be evil - Google 2004
    We have a new policy - Google 2012
    Google Fuchsia - 2021

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From crasso@3:633/10 to All on Tuesday, August 04, 2026 16:10:08
    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 17:06:54 -0300, Shadow <Sh@dowbr.invalid> wrote:

    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 11:12:56 -0400, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:

    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    Dunno if BIOS software can suffer from Bit Rot. If it can,
    maybe, just maybe re-flashing with a good image could correct it.
    Paul probably knows...
    []'s
    Re-flashing sounds like a resonable last-ditch effort. In my log, on
    9-22-08, looks like I flashed my AWD BIOS up to version 11. I'd
    downloaded it to a 3.5 floppy. Amazingly I located that 18 year old
    floppy! It's readable in Explorer, but wouldn't trust it very far.
    Might try copying it to a new diskette, dunno if that would prove
    anything, Says I'm supposed to flash from msdos, boot a dos diskette.
    Abit's long out of business, no hope of downloading that bin file
    again from anywhere.

    I guess I could jumper that shorting block, that's supposed to set
    BIOS back to what the factory sent me.

    And then again... for the past few days it has been booting without
    that hang, so desperation measures on hold. But this type shit never
    goes away it just haunts in the background.

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Paul@3:633/10 to All on Tuesday, August 04, 2026 16:56:34
    On Tue, 8/4/2026 4:10 PM, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:
    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 17:06:54 -0300, Shadow <Sh@dowbr.invalid> wrote:

    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 11:12:56 -0400, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:

    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in.

    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    Dunno if BIOS software can suffer from Bit Rot. If it can,
    maybe, just maybe re-flashing with a good image could correct it.
    Paul probably knows...
    []'s
    Re-flashing sounds like a resonable last-ditch effort. In my log, on
    9-22-08, looks like I flashed my AWD BIOS up to version 11. I'd
    downloaded it to a 3.5 floppy. Amazingly I located that 18 year old
    floppy! It's readable in Explorer, but wouldn't trust it very far.
    Might try copying it to a new diskette, dunno if that would prove
    anything, Says I'm supposed to flash from msdos, boot a dos diskette.
    Abit's long out of business, no hope of downloading that bin file
    again from anywhere.

    I guess I could jumper that shorting block, that's supposed to set
    BIOS back to what the factory sent me.

    And then again... for the past few days it has been booting without
    that hang, so desperation measures on hold. But this type shit never
    goes away it just haunts in the background.


    There are a couple possible sources.

    Archive.org may have a copy of the Abit web site.

    The other possibility, is at the time, someone privately may
    have made a snapshot of the site. So many years have passed,
    it's unlikely the private source is still online.

    To flash, there is a version indicator inside the file. The
    flasher software typically checks that it is going into
    the correct motherboard. The main BIOS image has a checksum,
    which only checks that the image has integrity. If the
    floppy copy had a bad byte or two, the motherboard would
    no longer POST, but would be using the emergency boot block.

    Typically you could flash the same version, or a more
    recent version. Not all flash utilities would support going
    backwards, and a backward version operation required one
    extra command line parameter to be set.

    The emergency boot block has no graphics, so it is a pig
    to work with. If a BIOS flash halts for any reason, in the
    middle of the flash, many BIOS compositions *update*
    the emergency boot block [you're not supposed to do that!]
    but when the tools used to make the BIOS change, they
    have to push out both a new main BIOS block as well as
    a new emergency boot block. The very purpose of the
    emergency boot block is to make it impossible to brick
    the computer. But as so many motherboard designs have
    replaced both flash blocks at the same time, the bullet-proof-ness
    of the approach just isn't there, and most of the time,
    a botched BIOS flash is a brickage. I've done lots of flashes
    here, without bricking anything, but then, the flasher
    designs have improved over the years as well (the block
    flasher code is actually a routine in the existing BIOS -- the
    BIOS is copied to low RAM so that's how you can flash
    a BIOS without an issue).

    As a betting individual, I don't think this has a
    high probability of doing anything one way or another.

    I think your problem is the aging of some voltage regulator
    design, something slightly out of spec. I've had two boards
    ruined that way. If the board is extremely dirty, if
    you're a smoker and the board is coated in tar plus
    dust, that's a pretty good test of a design to external
    challenges. I don't smoke, and yet I've had two boards fail.
    Someone I've worked with continuously for a while, he is a
    pipe smoker, and yet his stuff still works. So we cannot
    conclude that smoking is a death sentence for electronics,
    but it does affect cooling fans and heatsink surfaces
    (stuff will run a bit warmer).

    One Asus design, someone used an IR imager on the board,
    and they discovered a small eight pin chip running at 100C
    (boiling point of water). This does not guarantee the chip
    will die instantly, but this is also not a good thing.
    Just adhering a small RAMsink to one of those, is enough
    to solve the problem . Nothing in the documentation hints
    at the existence of a hotspot.

    Paul

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Shadow@3:633/10 to All on Tuesday, August 04, 2026 21:11:14
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 16:56:34 -0400, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    On Tue, 8/4/2026 4:10 PM, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:
    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 17:06:54 -0300, Shadow <Sh@dowbr.invalid> wrote:

    On Mon, 03 Aug 2026 11:12:56 -0400, crasso@nycap.rr.com wrote:

    I think my old 2008 homebuilt Abit pc is finally coming to the end of
    its journey. It has started hanging on the boot at the truck picture
    logo (where you have the option of Delete-ing into the BIOS). I could
    press Enter or Tab a few times and it would stagger on, get to my BCD
    menu and then boot successfully any OS I wanted.

    I replaced the CMOS battery and all was well - for a day, next AM it
    hung again, first boot of the day. The old battery measured 3.2v
    after I removed it. The new one had measured 3.3v before I put it in. >>>>
    I don't think I cleared the BIOS, just stuck the new battery in.

    Anyone, (Paul?) have any ideas how to save my precious old sweetheart?

    Dunno if BIOS software can suffer from Bit Rot. If it can,
    maybe, just maybe re-flashing with a good image could correct it.
    Paul probably knows...
    []'s
    Re-flashing sounds like a resonable last-ditch effort. In my log, on
    9-22-08, looks like I flashed my AWD BIOS up to version 11. I'd
    downloaded it to a 3.5 floppy. Amazingly I located that 18 year old
    floppy! It's readable in Explorer, but wouldn't trust it very far.
    Might try copying it to a new diskette, dunno if that would prove
    anything, Says I'm supposed to flash from msdos, boot a dos diskette.
    Abit's long out of business, no hope of downloading that bin file
    again from anywhere.

    I guess I could jumper that shorting block, that's supposed to set
    BIOS back to what the factory sent me.

    And then again... for the past few days it has been booting without
    that hang, so desperation measures on hold. But this type shit never
    goes away it just haunts in the background.


    There are a couple possible sources.

    Archive.org may have a copy of the Abit web site.

    I always look for old stuff on the Softpedia site. They never
    seem to delete anything and they've been around for decades.
    You might get lucky. Triple check the MB model before
    attempting to flash it.

    And then there's the Abit site:

    <https://fae.abit.com.tw/eng/download/index.htm>

    PS I've been backing up all my BIOS updates and firmware (and
    drivers) for the last (almost) 30 years. All on CDs and DVDs. But all
    my MBs have been ASUS, except for once when I was a victim of Soyo
    propaganda. That MB lasted about 4 months before the capacitors
    started leaking..
    []'s



    The other possibility, is at the time, someone privately may
    have made a snapshot of the site. So many years have passed,
    it's unlikely the private source is still online.

    To flash, there is a version indicator inside the file. The
    flasher software typically checks that it is going into
    the correct motherboard. The main BIOS image has a checksum,
    which only checks that the image has integrity. If the
    floppy copy had a bad byte or two, the motherboard would
    no longer POST, but would be using the emergency boot block.

    Typically you could flash the same version, or a more
    recent version. Not all flash utilities would support going
    backwards, and a backward version operation required one
    extra command line parameter to be set.

    The emergency boot block has no graphics, so it is a pig
    to work with. If a BIOS flash halts for any reason, in the
    middle of the flash, many BIOS compositions *update*
    the emergency boot block [you're not supposed to do that!]
    but when the tools used to make the BIOS change, they
    have to push out both a new main BIOS block as well as
    a new emergency boot block. The very purpose of the
    emergency boot block is to make it impossible to brick
    the computer. But as so many motherboard designs have
    replaced both flash blocks at the same time, the bullet-proof-ness
    of the approach just isn't there, and most of the time,
    a botched BIOS flash is a brickage. I've done lots of flashes
    here, without bricking anything, but then, the flasher
    designs have improved over the years as well (the block
    flasher code is actually a routine in the existing BIOS -- the
    BIOS is copied to low RAM so that's how you can flash
    a BIOS without an issue).

    As a betting individual, I don't think this has a
    high probability of doing anything one way or another.

    I think your problem is the aging of some voltage regulator
    design, something slightly out of spec. I've had two boards
    ruined that way. If the board is extremely dirty, if
    you're a smoker and the board is coated in tar plus
    dust, that's a pretty good test of a design to external
    challenges. I don't smoke, and yet I've had two boards fail.
    Someone I've worked with continuously for a while, he is a
    pipe smoker, and yet his stuff still works. So we cannot
    conclude that smoking is a death sentence for electronics,
    but it does affect cooling fans and heatsink surfaces
    (stuff will run a bit warmer).

    One Asus design, someone used an IR imager on the board,
    and they discovered a small eight pin chip running at 100C
    (boiling point of water). This does not guarantee the chip
    will die instantly, but this is also not a good thing.
    Just adhering a small RAMsink to one of those, is enough
    to solve the problem . Nothing in the documentation hints
    at the existence of a hotspot.

    Paul
    --
    Don't be evil - Google 2004
    We have a new policy - Google 2012
    Google Fuchsia - 2021

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From crasso@3:633/10 to All on Wednesday, August 05, 2026 11:00:10
    On Tue, 4 Aug 2026 16:56:34 -0400, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    . If the board is extremely dirty, if
    you're a smoker and the board is coated in tar plus
    dust, that's a pretty good test of a design to external
    challenges. I don't smoke, and yet I've had two boards fail.
    Someone I've worked with continuously for a while, he is a
    pipe smoker, and yet his stuff still works. So we cannot
    conclude that smoking is a death sentence for electronics,
    but it does affect cooling fans and heatsink surfaces
    (stuff will run a bit warmer).

    Hmmm... when I changed the CMOS battery I cleaned off the
    rear fan grills. They were FULL of dust. Since then I've had only one
    hang. I just blew the MB off just now. Here's hoping. Nope I don't
    smoke.

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.19
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)