• Wireless router antenna design fail

    From Don Y@3:633/10 to All on Saturday, April 11, 2026 19:51:56
    Antennae for wireless routers are little more than a coaxial
    connector and a short length of wire -- dressed up in a
    "durable, COSMETIC" plastic envelope.

    In today's gripe session, said "envelopes" have so much plastic
    that the friction at the connector isn't sufficient to support
    their weight in a desired orientation!

    I.e., connectors secured as tight as is prudent (without
    risking the solder connections to the PCB) and the antenna just
    flop around at the behest of the local gravitational field.

    Short of using a (permanent) adhesive to deprive them of the ability
    to be adjusted, any other ideas as to how to tweek the mass/friction
    tradeoff to make them usable?

    <https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/400a04e1-b409-4479-a339-7b246618aaf1.__CR0,0,300,300_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg>

    I.e., the antenna will rotate "downward" (left/right -- as if the coax connections were loose) of their own accord, in this photo; movement
    *normal* to the the photo is unaffected.

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@3:633/10 to All on Saturday, April 11, 2026 20:35:21
    On Sat, 11 Apr 2026 19:51:56 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Antennae for wireless routers are little more than a coaxial
    connector and a short length of wire -- dressed up in a
    "durable, COSMETIC" plastic envelope.

    It's called a coaxial sleeve dipole. <https://vu3dxr.in/sleeve-dipole-antenna-design-using-coaxial-cable-a-technical-deep-dive/>

    In today's gripe session, said "envelopes" have so much plastic
    that the friction at the connector isn't sufficient to support
    their weight in a desired orientation!

    Good observation. However, the outer envelope is a form of "radome"
    and is usually made from the cheapest moldable rubber possible.
    Fortunately, the ones that look like airplane propellers are made from
    molded plastic which lasts longer (before it crumbles) but doesn't
    bend.

    I.e., connectors secured as tight as is prudent (without
    risking the solder connections to the PCB) and the antenna just
    flop around at the behest of the local gravitational field.

    That's intentional. So is the having molded plastic SMA connector
    cover crack if over-tightened. The assumption is that the antennas
    tend to be attractive nuisances. Everyone from a curious toddler to
    an inquisitive scientist will play with the antenna. Eventually,
    something will break.

    Everyone's preferred aesthetic is different, resulting in some bizarre
    antenna arrangements. <https://www.reddit.com/r/wifi/comments/1hoz7xe/can_i_break_plastic_antenna/> Unfortunately, the idea orientation for a MIMO (multiple-input and multiple-output) antenna array is each antenna at a different angle
    which is generally recognized as ugly. Wireless router manufacturers
    off no guidance for proper orientation.

    Antennas with internal "patch" antennas work fairly well. However,
    experience has shown that wireless routers lacking visible antennas
    don't sell as well as those with a bizarre tangle of sleeve antennas.
    For example, it this abomination a high end wireless router or an art
    deco ash tray?
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=asus%20rog%20router&udm=2>

    Short of using a (permanent) adhesive to deprive them of the ability
    to be adjusted, any other ideas as to how to tweek the mass/friction
    tradeoff to make them usable?

    <https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/400a04e1-b409-4479-a339-7b246618aaf1.__CR0,0,300,300_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg>

    I.e., the antenna will rotate "downward" (left/right -- as if the coax >connections were loose) of their own accord, in this photo; movement
    *normal* to the the photo is unaffected.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one). It will be ugly, but it won't move much.
    If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    You too can have a wireless router with 8 antennas and an "AI Core": <https://rog.asus.com/us/networking/rog-rapture-gt-be19000ai/>


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558


    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Don Y@3:633/10 to All on Saturday, April 11, 2026 22:18:52
    Everyone's preferred aesthetic is different, resulting in some bizarre antenna arrangements. <https://www.reddit.com/r/wifi/comments/1hoz7xe/can_i_break_plastic_antenna/> Unfortunately, the idea orientation for a MIMO (multiple-input and multiple-output) antenna array is each antenna at a different angle
    which is generally recognized as ugly. Wireless router manufacturers
    off no guidance for proper orientation.

    "Whatever is best for your environment"

    My APs have internal antennae (except for the one in the garage
    whose antennae are outside the house)

    Antennas with internal "patch" antennas work fairly well. However, experience has shown that wireless routers lacking visible antennas
    don't sell as well as those with a bizarre tangle of sleeve antennas.
    For example, it this abomination a high end wireless router or an art
    deco ash tray?
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=asus%20rog%20router&udm=2>

    Short of using a (permanent) adhesive to deprive them of the ability
    to be adjusted, any other ideas as to how to tweek the mass/friction
    tradeoff to make them usable?

    <https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/400a04e1-b409-4479-a339-7b246618aaf1.__CR0,0,300,300_PT0_SX220_V1___.jpg>

    I.e., the antenna will rotate "downward" (left/right -- as if the coax
    connections were loose) of their own accord, in this photo; movement
    *normal* to the the photo is unaffected.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one). It will be ugly, but it won't move much.
    If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    The shrink tubing may work. If I have any of large enough diameter.
    Otherwise, I think I will just superglue them in three different
    orientations -- this gives 6 different configurations (plus the
    "tilt" allowed for each as well as reorienting the entire unit)

    I'm not keen on spending any time on it (its not mine)
    but want to at least LOOK like I made an effort (before
    advising them to replace the thing)

    You too can have a wireless router with 8 antennas and an "AI Core": <https://rog.asus.com/us/networking/rog-rapture-gt-be19000ai/>




    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Liz Tuddenham@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 08:52:05
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    ... the antenna just
    flop around at the behest of the local gravitational field.

    Use a dipole, so the weight of the two halves balances at the connector.


    --
    ~ Liz Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Don Y@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 01:23:00
    On 4/12/2026 12:52 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    ... the antenna just
    flop around at the behest of the local gravitational field.

    Use a dipole, so the weight of the two halves balances at the connector.

    Not my kit. I'm just the local "let's-bring-it-to-Don,-HE'LL-fix-it!".

    I try to "make an effort" that is proportional to the item being
    rescued. In this case, a $50 a/b/g/n router isn't worth too much
    of an effort.

    [I resorted to the superglue approach I outlined to Jeff. If it
    lasts, great. If not, they can make a replacement purchase.]

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Liz Tuddenham@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 10:34:54
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 4/12/2026 12:52 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    ... the antenna just
    flop around at the behest of the local gravitational field.

    Use a dipole, so the weight of the two halves balances at the connector.

    Not my kit. I'm just the local "let's-bring-it-to-Don,-HE'LL-fix-it!".

    I try to "make an effort" that is proportional to the item being
    rescued. In this case, a $50 a/b/g/n router isn't worth too much
    of an effort.

    [I resorted to the superglue approach I outlined to Jeff. If it
    lasts, great. If not, they can make a replacement purchase.]

    Superglue a lump of lead on the opposite side of the connector to
    balance it.

    Elastic bands to hold it in place.

    Replace the fancy bits with some copper wire that can be bent to the
    required position.


    --
    ~ Liz Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 10:40:13
    On Sat, 11 Apr 2026 22:18:52 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Everyone's preferred aesthetic is different, resulting in some bizarre
    antenna arrangements.
    <https://www.reddit.com/r/wifi/comments/1hoz7xe/can_i_break_plastic_antenna/>
    Unfortunately, the idea orientation for a MIMO (multiple-input and
    multiple-output) antenna array is each antenna at a different angle
    which is generally recognized as ugly. Wireless router manufacturers
    off no guidance for proper orientation.

    "Whatever is best for your environment"

    For everyone else, there are wireless mesh networks. I've upgraded a
    few customers who were having indoor coverage problems to TP-Link mesh
    systems:
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/mesh-wifi/> <https://www.tp-link.com/us/deco-mesh-wifi/product-family/>
    Notice the lack of exposed antennas.

    One really nice feature is seamless roaming, where a user can walk
    around the house and not drop the connection. That's very handy for
    Wi-Fi calling from a cell phone. Another is that the system is
    remotely accessible from the internet for admin and monitoring. Prices
    vary considerably. I haven't installed any of the Wi-Fi 7 models yet
    because of the high prices. Wi-Fi 6 is good enough for most home
    users $100 for a 3 pack: <https://www.target.com/p/tp-link-ax1500-whole-home-mesh-wi-fi-6-3pk-system/-/A-91219895>

    My APs have internal antennae (except for the one in the garage
    whose antennae are outside the house)

    Internal antennas work, but you were asking about coaxial sleeve
    antennas.

    If you're going to be juggling wi-fi antennas, I suggest you become
    familiar with the various wi-fi analyzer apps available for
    smartphones. They display the signal strength with which you can
    determine if you're making progress. Hint: Temporarily set the
    wireless router or access point to a fixed minimum speed when
    measuring signal levels.

    I mostly use WiFi Overview 360 Pro: <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.android.wifioverviewpro> <https://www.kaibits-software.com/product_wifioverview360pro.htm>
    For interference problems, I borrow a spectrum analyzer.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one). It will be ugly, but it won't move much.
    If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    The shrink tubing may work. If I have any of large enough diameter. >Otherwise, I think I will just superglue them in three different
    orientations -- this gives 6 different configurations (plus the
    "tilt" allowed for each as well as reorienting the entire unit)

    With super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive), you have one chance to
    position the antennas correctly. It is possible to remove
    cyanoacrylate glue with acetone. However, I think it best to use
    something removable, such as hot melt glue, which works nicely for
    temporary installations. If you just want to freeze the position of
    the antenna, maybe try removable Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.

    I'm not keen on spending any time on it (its not mine)
    but want to at least LOOK like I made an effort (before
    advising them to replace the thing)

    Right. Appearances are important. That's why I recommended the Asus
    8 legged ROG arachnid monstrosity (link below). Anything that exotic
    must surely be better.

    You too can have a wireless router with 8 antennas and an "AI Core":
    <https://rog.asus.com/us/networking/rog-rapture-gt-be19000ai/>

    Gone to purchase some lactase pills. Hopefully, that will make me
    less intolerant.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558


    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Don Y@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 12:06:25
    On 4/12/2026 10:40 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    "Whatever is best for your environment"

    For everyone else, there are wireless mesh networks. I've upgraded a
    few customers who were having indoor coverage problems to TP-Link mesh systems:
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/mesh-wifi/> <https://www.tp-link.com/us/deco-mesh-wifi/product-family/>
    Notice the lack of exposed antennas.

    More "boxes" and "wall warts" to hide. I have two APs inside
    the house, one for the back yard and one for the garage (to
    link to the car). But, they are all relatively well hidden
    soas not to look "techy".

    [There are 10 other BT radios that are even better at hiding
    so you can wear a BT appliance and never be "out of range"]

    One really nice feature is seamless roaming, where a user can walk
    around the house and not drop the connection. That's very handy for
    Wi-Fi calling from a cell phone. Another is that the system is
    remotely accessible from the internet for admin and monitoring. Prices
    vary considerably. I haven't installed any of the Wi-Fi 7 models yet
    because of the high prices. Wi-Fi 6 is good enough for most home
    users $100 for a 3 pack: <https://www.target.com/p/tp-link-ax1500-whole-home-mesh-wi-fi-6-3pk-system/-/A-91219895>

    We tend not to have coverage problems as homes tend to have
    pretty "open" floorplans. E.g., I can "see" from one end
    of the house to the other -- despite a fake wall that was placed
    to try to break up such sight lines.

    Extending coverage *outside* the home tends to be a bit more
    challenging (hence the AP on the back porch and above the
    garage door.

    OTOH, I can "see" the SSIDs for several of my neighbors...

    My APs have internal antennae (except for the one in the garage
    whose antennae are outside the house)

    Internal antennas work, but you were asking about coaxial sleeve
    antennas.

    If you're going to be juggling wi-fi antennas, I suggest you become
    familiar with the various wi-fi analyzer apps available for
    smartphones. They display the signal strength with which you can
    determine if you're making progress. Hint: Temporarily set the
    wireless router or access point to a fixed minimum speed when
    measuring signal levels.

    Not my problem. I just had to prevent the "limp antennae" issue.
    If this was working for them previously, it should continue to do so.

    Or not. (and I will still be credited for making the effort)

    I mostly use WiFi Overview 360 Pro: <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.android.wifioverviewpro> <https://www.kaibits-software.com/product_wifioverview360pro.htm>
    For interference problems, I borrow a spectrum analyzer.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one). It will be ugly, but it won't move much.
    If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    The shrink tubing may work. If I have any of large enough diameter.
    Otherwise, I think I will just superglue them in three different
    orientations -- this gives 6 different configurations (plus the
    "tilt" allowed for each as well as reorienting the entire unit)

    With super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive), you have one chance to
    position the antennas correctly.

    Yes. I connected all three antennae. Ensure they were well secured.
    Then, turned the router around so the rear was facing me (to make
    those connections more easily accessible). Arranged the antennae as
    I wanted them and, as they WANTED to "flop over", propped each into
    the desired position. A few drops of superglue to saturate the
    "swivel point" and wait a while. Later, unscrewed each connector
    by 1/2 turn to expose their undersides. A bit more glue and done!

    It is possible to remove
    cyanoacrylate glue with acetone. However, I think it best to use
    something removable, such as hot melt glue, which works nicely for
    temporary installations. If you just want to freeze the position of
    the antenna, maybe try removable Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.

    Blue and red only seem to work on *tight* connections. There's
    too much slop in these.

    I'm not keen on spending any time on it (its not mine)
    but want to at least LOOK like I made an effort (before
    advising them to replace the thing)

    Right. Appearances are important. That's why I recommended the Asus
    8 legged ROG arachnid monstrosity (link below). Anything that exotic
    must surely be better.

    Most people hide their APs exactly because they look so unnatural.
    Closets being a prime location. Of course, getting power into
    those spaces is a bit of a challenge (all my kit is PoE)

    You too can have a wireless router with 8 antennas and an "AI Core":
    <https://rog.asus.com/us/networking/rog-rapture-gt-be19000ai/>

    Gone to purchase some lactase pills. Hopefully, that will make me
    less intolerant.

    I have "issues" with some breakfast (dry) cereals. The doctor
    suggesting lactose intolerance. I counter with the fact that
    I can drink 12+ oz glasses of whole milk with no problem.
    Must be something in the cereals...

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From joegwinn@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 15:47:09
    On Sun, 12 Apr 2026 10:40:13 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Sat, 11 Apr 2026 22:18:52 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Everyone's preferred aesthetic is different, resulting in some bizarre
    antenna arrangements.
    <https://www.reddit.com/r/wifi/comments/1hoz7xe/can_i_break_plastic_antenna/>
    Unfortunately, the idea orientation for a MIMO (multiple-input and
    multiple-output) antenna array is each antenna at a different angle
    which is generally recognized as ugly. Wireless router manufacturers
    off no guidance for proper orientation.

    "Whatever is best for your environment"

    For everyone else, there are wireless mesh networks. I've upgraded a
    few customers who were having indoor coverage problems to TP-Link mesh >systems:
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/mesh-wifi/> ><https://www.tp-link.com/us/deco-mesh-wifi/product-family/>
    Notice the lack of exposed antennas.

    Be aware that TP-Link is flagged as a security problem:

    .<https://media.defense.gov/2026/Apr/07/2003907743/-1/-1/0/I-260407-PSA.PDF>

    There is a list of the known-compromised makes and models.

    Joe



    One really nice feature is seamless roaming, where a user can walk
    around the house and not drop the connection. That's very handy for
    Wi-Fi calling from a cell phone. Another is that the system is
    remotely accessible from the internet for admin and monitoring. Prices
    vary considerably. I haven't installed any of the Wi-Fi 7 models yet
    because of the high prices. Wi-Fi 6 is good enough for most home
    users $100 for a 3 pack: ><https://www.target.com/p/tp-link-ax1500-whole-home-mesh-wi-fi-6-3pk-system/-/A-91219895>

    My APs have internal antennae (except for the one in the garage
    whose antennae are outside the house)

    Internal antennas work, but you were asking about coaxial sleeve
    antennas.

    If you're going to be juggling wi-fi antennas, I suggest you become
    familiar with the various wi-fi analyzer apps available for
    smartphones. They display the signal strength with which you can
    determine if you're making progress. Hint: Temporarily set the
    wireless router or access point to a fixed minimum speed when
    measuring signal levels.

    I mostly use WiFi Overview 360 Pro: ><https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.android.wifioverviewpro> ><https://www.kaibits-software.com/product_wifioverview360pro.htm>
    For interference problems, I borrow a spectrum analyzer.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one). It will be ugly, but it won't move much.
    If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    The shrink tubing may work. If I have any of large enough diameter. >>Otherwise, I think I will just superglue them in three different >>orientations -- this gives 6 different configurations (plus the
    "tilt" allowed for each as well as reorienting the entire unit)

    With super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive), you have one chance to
    position the antennas correctly. It is possible to remove
    cyanoacrylate glue with acetone. However, I think it best to use
    something removable, such as hot melt glue, which works nicely for
    temporary installations. If you just want to freeze the position of
    the antenna, maybe try removable Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.

    I'm not keen on spending any time on it (its not mine)
    but want to at least LOOK like I made an effort (before
    advising them to replace the thing)

    Right. Appearances are important. That's why I recommended the Asus
    8 legged ROG arachnid monstrosity (link below). Anything that exotic
    must surely be better.

    You too can have a wireless router with 8 antennas and an "AI Core":
    <https://rog.asus.com/us/networking/rog-rapture-gt-be19000ai/>

    Gone to purchase some lactase pills. Hopefully, that will make me
    less intolerant.

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Don Y@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 13:11:20
    On 4/12/2026 2:34 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    On 4/12/2026 12:52 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
    Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    ... the antenna just
    flop around at the behest of the local gravitational field.

    Use a dipole, so the weight of the two halves balances at the connector.

    Not my kit. I'm just the local "let's-bring-it-to-Don,-HE'LL-fix-it!".

    I try to "make an effort" that is proportional to the item being
    rescued. In this case, a $50 a/b/g/n router isn't worth too much
    of an effort.

    [I resorted to the superglue approach I outlined to Jeff. If it
    lasts, great. If not, they can make a replacement purchase.]

    Superglue a lump of lead on the opposite side of the connector to
    balance it.

    Elastic bands to hold it in place.

    Replace the fancy bits with some copper wire that can be bent to the
    required position.

    Gluing the rotatable part seems to have worked well.
    As the glue is transparent and low viscosity, it isn't
    even noticeable (as most has flowed INTO the "joint")

    I will caution them regarding *removal* of the antenna
    (each must be "straightened" prior to removal) but doubt
    they will ever need to remove them.

    And, if an antenna comes loose (mechanical force on it),
    they can just snug it up and it will return to the
    "preset" orientation that I have established.

    No doubt they will eventually update to 6 or even 7
    so this seems about the correct amount of effort
    (and zero expense).

    If something like this happens again (on some other
    bit of kit), I may try slipping a length of brake line
    or vacuum line over the connector in the hope that it
    provides enough "drag" on the movable portion.

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Carl@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 16:24:13
    On 4/12/26 3:06 PM, Don Y wrote:
    On 4/12/2026 10:40 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    "Whatever is best for your environment"

    For everyone else, there are wireless mesh networks.˙ I've upgraded a
    few customers who were having indoor coverage problems to TP-Link mesh
    systems:
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/mesh-wifi/>
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/deco-mesh-wifi/product-family/>
    Notice the lack of exposed antennas.

    More "boxes" and "wall warts" to hide.˙ I have two APs inside
    the house, one for the back yard and one for the garage (to
    link to the car).˙ But, they are all relatively well hidden
    soas not to look "techy".

    [There are 10 other BT radios that are even better at hiding
    so you can wear a BT appliance and never be "out of range"]

    One really nice feature is seamless roaming, where a user can walk
    around the house and not drop the connection.˙ That's very handy for
    Wi-Fi calling from a cell phone.˙ Another is that the system is
    remotely accessible from the internet for admin and monitoring. Prices
    vary considerably.˙ I haven't installed any of the Wi-Fi 7 models yet
    because of the high prices.˙ Wi-Fi 6 is good enough for most home
    users˙ $100 for a 3 pack:
    <https://www.target.com/p/tp-link-ax1500-whole-home-mesh-wi-fi-6-3pk-
    system/-/A-91219895>

    We tend not to have coverage problems as homes tend to have
    pretty "open" floorplans.˙ E.g., I can "see" from one end
    of the house to the other -- despite a fake wall that was placed
    to try to break up such sight lines.

    Extending coverage *outside* the home tends to be a bit more
    challenging (hence the AP on the back porch and above the
    garage door.

    OTOH, I can "see" the SSIDs for several of my neighbors...

    My APs have internal antennae (except for the one in the garage
    whose antennae are outside the house)

    Internal antennas work, but you were asking about coaxial sleeve
    antennas.

    If you're going to be juggling wi-fi antennas, I suggest you become
    familiar with the various wi-fi analyzer apps available for
    smartphones.˙ They display the signal strength with which you can
    determine if you're making progress.˙ Hint:˙ Temporarily set the
    wireless router or access point to a fixed minimum speed when
    measuring signal levels.

    Not my problem.˙ I just had to prevent the "limp antennae" issue.
    If this was working for them previously, it should continue to do so.

    Or not.˙ (and I will still be credited for making the effort)

    I mostly use WiFi Overview 360 Pro:
    <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?
    id=de.android.wifioverviewpro>
    <https://www.kaibits-software.com/product_wifioverview360pro.htm>
    For interference problems, I borrow a spectrum analyzer.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one).˙ It will be ugly, but it won't move much.
    If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    The shrink tubing may work.˙ If I have any of large enough diameter.
    Otherwise, I think I will just superglue them in three different
    orientations -- this gives 6 different configurations (plus the
    "tilt" allowed for each as well as reorienting the entire unit)

    With super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive), you have one chance to
    position the antennas correctly.

    Yes.˙ I connected all three antennae.˙ Ensure they were well secured.
    Then, turned the router around so the rear was facing me (to make
    those connections more easily accessible).˙ Arranged the antennae as
    I wanted them and, as they WANTED to "flop over", propped each into
    the desired position.˙ A few drops of superglue to saturate the
    "swivel point" and wait a while.˙ Later, unscrewed each connector
    by 1/2 turn to expose their undersides.˙ A bit more glue and done!

    It is possible to remove
    cyanoacrylate glue with acetone.˙ However, I think it best to use
    something removable, such as hot melt glue, which works nicely for
    temporary installations.˙ If you just want to freeze the position of
    the antenna, maybe try removable Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.

    Blue and red only seem to work on *tight* connections.˙ There's
    too much slop in these.

    That's why they make green :-). Several part numbers to cover a range
    of clearances, mostly advertised for bearing retention I think.


    I'm not keen on spending any time on it (its not mine)
    but want to at least LOOK like I made an effort (before
    advising them to replace the thing)

    Right.˙ Appearances are important.˙ That's why I recommended the Asus
    8 legged ROG arachnid monstrosity (link below).˙ Anything that exotic
    must surely be better.

    Most people hide their APs exactly because they look so unnatural.
    Closets being a prime location.˙ Of course, getting power into
    those spaces is a bit of a challenge (all my kit is PoE)

    You too can have a wireless router with 8 antennas and an "AI Core":
    <https://rog.asus.com/us/networking/rog-rapture-gt-be19000ai/>

    Gone to purchase some lactase pills.˙ Hopefully, that will make me
    less intolerant.

    I have "issues" with some breakfast (dry) cereals.˙ The doctor
    suggesting lactose intolerance.˙ I counter with the fact that
    I can drink 12+ oz glasses of whole milk with no problem.
    Must be something in the cereals...


    --
    Regards,
    Carl

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Don Y@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 14:11:55
    On 4/12/2026 1:24 PM, Carl wrote:
    On 4/12/26 3:06 PM, Don Y wrote:
    On 4/12/2026 10:40 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    "Whatever is best for your environment"

    For everyone else, there are wireless mesh networks.˙ I've upgraded a
    few customers who were having indoor coverage problems to TP-Link mesh
    systems:
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/mesh-wifi/>
    <https://www.tp-link.com/us/deco-mesh-wifi/product-family/>
    Notice the lack of exposed antennas.

    More "boxes" and "wall warts" to hide.˙ I have two APs inside
    the house, one for the back yard and one for the garage (to
    link to the car).˙ But, they are all relatively well hidden
    soas not to look "techy".

    [There are 10 other BT radios that are even better at hiding
    so you can wear a BT appliance and never be "out of range"]

    One really nice feature is seamless roaming, where a user can walk
    around the house and not drop the connection.˙ That's very handy for
    Wi-Fi calling from a cell phone.˙ Another is that the system is
    remotely accessible from the internet for admin and monitoring. Prices
    vary considerably.˙ I haven't installed any of the Wi-Fi 7 models yet
    because of the high prices.˙ Wi-Fi 6 is good enough for most home
    users˙ $100 for a 3 pack:
    <https://www.target.com/p/tp-link-ax1500-whole-home-mesh-wi-fi-6-3pk-
    system/-/A-91219895>

    We tend not to have coverage problems as homes tend to have
    pretty "open" floorplans.˙ E.g., I can "see" from one end
    of the house to the other -- despite a fake wall that was placed
    to try to break up such sight lines.

    Extending coverage *outside* the home tends to be a bit more
    challenging (hence the AP on the back porch and above the
    garage door.

    OTOH, I can "see" the SSIDs for several of my neighbors...

    My APs have internal antennae (except for the one in the garage
    whose antennae are outside the house)

    Internal antennas work, but you were asking about coaxial sleeve
    antennas.

    If you're going to be juggling wi-fi antennas, I suggest you become
    familiar with the various wi-fi analyzer apps available for
    smartphones.˙ They display the signal strength with which you can
    determine if you're making progress.˙ Hint:˙ Temporarily set the
    wireless router or access point to a fixed minimum speed when
    measuring signal levels.

    Not my problem.˙ I just had to prevent the "limp antennae" issue.
    If this was working for them previously, it should continue to do so.

    Or not.˙ (and I will still be credited for making the effort)

    I mostly use WiFi Overview 360 Pro:
    <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details? id=de.android.wifioverviewpro> >>> <https://www.kaibits-software.com/product_wifioverview360pro.htm>
    For interference problems, I borrow a spectrum analyzer.

    Try some shrink tube around the antenna base, covering the SMA
    connector (if it has one).˙ It will be ugly, but it won't move much. >>>>> If the connector is not accessible, try hot melt glue.

    The shrink tubing may work.˙ If I have any of large enough diameter.
    Otherwise, I think I will just superglue them in three different
    orientations -- this gives 6 different configurations (plus the
    "tilt" allowed for each as well as reorienting the entire unit)

    With super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive), you have one chance to
    position the antennas correctly.

    Yes.˙ I connected all three antennae.˙ Ensure they were well secured.
    Then, turned the router around so the rear was facing me (to make
    those connections more easily accessible).˙ Arranged the antennae as
    I wanted them and, as they WANTED to "flop over", propped each into
    the desired position.˙ A few drops of superglue to saturate the
    "swivel point" and wait a while.˙ Later, unscrewed each connector
    by 1/2 turn to expose their undersides.˙ A bit more glue and done!

    It is possible to remove
    cyanoacrylate glue with acetone.˙ However, I think it best to use
    something removable, such as hot melt glue, which works nicely for
    temporary installations.˙ If you just want to freeze the position of
    the antenna, maybe try removable Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242.

    Blue and red only seem to work on *tight* connections.˙ There's
    too much slop in these.

    That's why they make green :-).˙ Several part numbers to cover a range of clearances, mostly advertised for bearing retention I think.

    Green is comparable to red. But, all of those products are designed
    for parts that already "fit reasonably well" and just need to be
    secured against vibration.

    This is a sloppy fit. Much looser tolerances than threaded parts
    (even poorly machined parts!) would exhibit.

    When I first was handed the router, the antennae were so sloppy
    that my first impression was the connectors had broken free of the
    PCB. (OK, I'll take it apart and reflow the contacts).

    But, the PCB-mounted connectors were intack. As were the mating
    connections for the antennae. It was outboard of the connection
    that the problem existed. I could get an antenna to stand perfectly
    vertical (if I patiently "balanced" it) but anything off of vertical
    quickly (as in "within seconds") fell until it encountered some
    other support.

    Jeff's shrink wrap might have worked (I don't have anything that
    diameter) -- but, likely only for a short while as it tends to stretch
    when subjected to stresses.

    Liz's rubber bands could have worked -- until they inevitably failed
    (what the hell are "rubber bands" made of, nowadays, as they all seem
    to deteriorate in short order!).

    If it was a "real project", I would try some rubber tubing with a
    carefully chosen ID in the hope that it would put enough drag
    on the parts and NOT "stretch out" with repeated use.

    But, anything < $100 is disposable, nowadays. So, if I could get
    them up and running until they decided to replace the router,
    I can justify the time spent.

    [I'll watch for a router to rescue for them as they turn up
    with some frequency; I have no need for routers so don't have a
    "stash" to draw on. Maybe Tuesday as I have some kit to recycle
    and an auction to visit.]

    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.13
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@3:633/10 to All on Sunday, April 12, 2026 18:34:29
    On Sun, 12 Apr 2026 14:11:55 -0700, Don Y
    <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

    Jeff's shrink wrap might have worked (I don't have anything that
    diameter) -- but, likely only for a short while as it tends to stretch
    when subjected to stresses.

    Search for "adhesive lined heat shrink tube". It won't slip. <https://www.google.com/search?q=adhesive%20lined%20heat%20shrink%20tube&udm=2>

    I still recommend that you use hot melt glue, because it can easily be
    moved or removed:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=hot%20melt%20glue&udm=2> <https://www.google.com/search?q=hot%20melt%20glue&assortment&udm=2
    You can get 3:1 and 4:1 shrink tube, if size is a problem. 5:1 and
    6:1 are also available, but only in larger diameters: <https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Abrasions/dp/B0B1MCYZ6X>

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 AE6KS 831-336-2558


    --- PyGate Linux v1.5.14
    * Origin: Dragon's Lair, PyGate NNTP<>Fido Gate (3:633/10)