https://ibb.co/Rkgm3Mrm
https://ibb.co/Rp41yXbW
https://ibb.co/nqFtRwrV
https://ibb.co/tTm7F09Q
As those of us who have been in the trade for many years know (and that doesn't include those who can't tell the difference between glass and plastic, or those that have been doing nothing other than rearranging
their Tupperware containers for the last 30 years), some engines have a reputation for for head gasket failures.
An engine I'm rebuilding at the moment is one of them. It's a Mazda "FE" series 2 litre petrol that was fitted to many vehicles over the years ranging from Mazda and Ford utes and vans, Mazda 626 and 929 Sedans,Standard procedure Darren, check the head, check the block, so what?
Ford Telstars, and things like early Kia Sportage. It's an engine that's been around for a very long time, and is still in use today as a very popular Forklift powerplant.
But it's known for head gasket issues and especially on the earlier models.
Part of the reason for that is that they run an alloy head which is not
very well clamped, and it's mostly hollow. It reacts quite violently to
heat and tends to collapse under the head bolts when it gets hot which releases the bolt tension and removes the gasket seal. Many people are
aware of that (except those mentioned earlier) and simply replace the
gasket and send the owner on their way.
But there are other problems aside from the head itself, and it's an
issue that doesn't just affect the Mazda engine. It's the block deck flatness, and in particular just how badly cast iron can move around and provide an irregular gasket surface.
Here's some pics I took last week:
https://ibb.co/Rkgm3Mrm
This is the deck surface on this little Mazda engine after I'd finished honing it. It looked fairly clean and had no obvious signs of any
issues. This engine came from a donor van I bought for parts for the cab chassis truck I'm restoring, and it had around 230k km's on it. Apart
from a heavy smoking problem thanks to perished valve stem seals, it ran fine with no cooling system issues.
https://ibb.co/Rp41yXbW
This is the same block after I stuck it on the mill, dialed in the
cutter and gave it a 3 thousandths pass. As can be seen, despite
appearances the deck was about as straight as a Labor party election promise.
https://ibb.co/nqFtRwrV
This is after 8 thousandths had been removed and while it's cleaned up
all the dykem you can still see fire ring groove fretting marks and some slight corrosion around a few of the water openings.
https://ibb.co/tTm7F09Q
Final finish cut was 13 thousandths where it cleaned up 95% of the
marked areas. There is still a slight fire ring mark partially around
number one cylinder, but it's minor and given that I didn't have much playing room left before piston protrusion would start to be a problem I left it as it is and will run it like that.
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just suspect
the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
As those of us who have been in the trade for many years know (and that doesn't include those who can't tell the difference between glass and plastic, or those that have been doing nothing other than rearranging
their Tupperware containers for the last 30 years), some engines have a reputation for for head gasket failures.
An engine I'm rebuilding at the moment is one of them. It's a Mazda "FE" series 2 litre petrol that was fitted to many vehicles over the years ranging from Mazda and Ford utes and vans, Mazda 626 and 929 Sedans,
Ford Telstars, and things like early Kia Sportage. It's an engine that's been around for a very long time, and is still in use today as a very popular Forklift powerplant.
But it's known for head gasket issues and especially on the earlier models.
Part of the reason for that is that they run an alloy head which is not
very well clamped, and it's mostly hollow. It reacts quite violently to
heat and tends to collapse under the head bolts when it gets hot which releases the bolt tension and removes the gasket seal. Many people are
aware of that (except those mentioned earlier) and simply replace the
gasket and send the owner on their way.
But there are other problems aside from the head itself, and it's an
issue that doesn't just affect the Mazda engine. It's the block deck flatness, and in particular just how badly cast iron can move around and provide an irregular gasket surface.
Here's some pics I took last week:
https://ibb.co/Rkgm3Mrm
This is the deck surface on this little Mazda engine after I'd finished honing it. It looked fairly clean and had no obvious signs of any
issues. This engine came from a donor van I bought for parts for the cab chassis truck I'm restoring, and it had around 230k km's on it. Apart
from a heavy smoking problem thanks to perished valve stem seals, it ran fine with no cooling system issues.
https://ibb.co/Rp41yXbW
This is the same block after I stuck it on the mill, dialed in the
cutter and gave it a 3 thousandths pass. As can be seen, despite
appearances the deck was about as straight as a Labor party election promise.
https://ibb.co/nqFtRwrV
This is after 8 thousandths had been removed and while it's cleaned up
all the dykem you can still see fire ring groove fretting marks and some slight corrosion around a few of the water openings.
https://ibb.co/tTm7F09Q
Final finish cut was 13 thousandths where it cleaned up 95% of the
marked areas. There is still a slight fire ring mark partially around
number one cylinder, but it's minor and given that I didn't have much playing room left before piston protrusion would start to be a problem I left it as it is and will run it like that.
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just suspect
the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just suspect
the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just
suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen way
worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty good.
As those of us who have been in the trade for many years know
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
As those of us who have been in the trade for many years know (and
that doesn't include those who can't tell the difference between glass
and plastic, or those that have been doing nothing other than
rearranging their Tupperware containers for the last 30 years), some
engines have a reputation for for head gasket failures.
Your insecurity is showing Darren!ÿ >
An engine I'm rebuilding at the moment is one of them. It's a MazdaStandard procedure Darren, check the head, check the block, so what?
"FE" series 2 litre petrol that was fitted to many vehicles over the
years ranging from Mazda and Ford utes and vans, Mazda 626 and 929
Sedans, Ford Telstars, and things like early Kia Sportage. It's an
engine that's been around for a very long time, and is still in use
today as a very popular Forklift powerplant.
But it's known for head gasket issues and especially on the earlier
models.
Part of the reason for that is that they run an alloy head which is
not very well clamped, and it's mostly hollow. It reacts quite
violently to heat and tends to collapse under the head bolts when it
gets hot which releases the bolt tension and removes the gasket seal.
Many people are aware of that (except those mentioned earlier) and
simply replace the gasket and send the owner on their way.
But there are other problems aside from the head itself, and it's an
issue that doesn't just affect the Mazda engine. It's the block deck
flatness, and in particular just how badly cast iron can move around
and provide an irregular gasket surface.
Here's some pics I took last week:
https://ibb.co/Rkgm3Mrm
This is the deck surface on this little Mazda engine after I'd
finished honing it. It looked fairly clean and had no obvious signs of
any issues. This engine came from a donor van I bought for parts for
the cab chassis truck I'm restoring, and it had around 230k km's on
it. Apart from a heavy smoking problem thanks to perished valve stem
seals, it ran fine with no cooling system issues.
https://ibb.co/Rp41yXbW
This is the same block after I stuck it on the mill, dialed in the
cutter and gave it a 3 thousandths pass. As can be seen, despite
appearances the deck was about as straight as a Labor party election
promise.
https://ibb.co/nqFtRwrV
This is after 8 thousandths had been removed and while it's cleaned up
all the dykem you can still see fire ring groove fretting marks and
some slight corrosion around a few of the water openings.
https://ibb.co/tTm7F09Q
Final finish cut was 13 thousandths where it cleaned up 95% of the
marked areas. There is still a slight fire ring mark partially around
number one cylinder, but it's minor and given that I didn't have much
playing room left before piston protrusion would start to be a problem
I left it as it is and will run it like that.
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just suspect
the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check the
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just
suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen way
worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty good.
On 19/07/2026 9:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
As those of us who have been in the trade for many years know
That's you out then.
<snip unread>
On 19/07/2026 9:17 pm, Xeno wrote:
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
As those of us who have been in the trade for many years know (and
that doesn't include those who can't tell the difference between
glass and plastic, or those that have been doing nothing other than
rearranging their Tupperware containers for the last 30 years), some
engines have a reputation for for head gasket failures.
Your insecurity is showing Darren!ÿ >
An engine I'm rebuilding at the moment is one of them. It's a MazdaStandard procedure Darren, check the head, check the block, so what?
"FE" series 2 litre petrol that was fitted to many vehicles over the
years ranging from Mazda and Ford utes and vans, Mazda 626 and 929
Sedans, Ford Telstars, and things like early Kia Sportage. It's an
engine that's been around for a very long time, and is still in use
today as a very popular Forklift powerplant.
But it's known for head gasket issues and especially on the earlier
models.
Part of the reason for that is that they run an alloy head which is
not very well clamped, and it's mostly hollow. It reacts quite
violently to heat and tends to collapse under the head bolts when it
gets hot which releases the bolt tension and removes the gasket seal.
Many people are aware of that (except those mentioned earlier) and
simply replace the gasket and send the owner on their way.
But there are other problems aside from the head itself, and it's an
issue that doesn't just affect the Mazda engine. It's the block deck
flatness, and in particular just how badly cast iron can move around
and provide an irregular gasket surface.
Here's some pics I took last week:
https://ibb.co/Rkgm3Mrm
This is the deck surface on this little Mazda engine after I'd
finished honing it. It looked fairly clean and had no obvious signs
of any issues. This engine came from a donor van I bought for parts
for the cab chassis truck I'm restoring, and it had around 230k km's
on it. Apart from a heavy smoking problem thanks to perished valve
stem seals, it ran fine with no cooling system issues.
https://ibb.co/Rp41yXbW
This is the same block after I stuck it on the mill, dialed in the
cutter and gave it a 3 thousandths pass. As can be seen, despite
appearances the deck was about as straight as a Labor party election
promise.
https://ibb.co/nqFtRwrV
This is after 8 thousandths had been removed and while it's cleaned
up all the dykem you can still see fire ring groove fretting marks
and some slight corrosion around a few of the water openings.
https://ibb.co/tTm7F09Q
Final finish cut was 13 thousandths where it cleaned up 95% of the
marked areas. There is still a slight fire ring mark partially around
number one cylinder, but it's minor and given that I didn't have much
playing room left before piston protrusion would start to be a
problem I left it as it is and will run it like that.
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn't
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just
suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
He thinks he's onto something new... well, it's new to him anyway.
All the gear, no idea - sums him up perfectly.
On 19/07/2026 9:17 pm, Xeno wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this wasn'tStandard procedure Darren, check the head, check the block, so what?
done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't just
suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
He thinks he's onto something new... well, it's new to him anyway.
All the gear, no idea - sums him up perfectly.
On 20/7/2026 10:43 am, Noddy wrote:
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check the block deck as well as the head in the case of head gasket failure. More
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this
wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't
just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen way
worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty good.
so if you suspect the engine has been overheated. In fact, I'd say check
the block deck and head surfaces every time you have the head off an
engine. Doesn't take long, saves a lot of grief later.
Oh, hang on, you don't even check piston to valve clearance when
modifying an engine. Carry on clown!
On 20/07/2026 1:12 pm, Xeno wrote:
There are real issues with that diagnosis.
On 20/7/2026 10:43 am, Noddy wrote:
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this
wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't
just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen way
worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty good.
the block deck as well as the head in the case of head gasket failure.
More so if you suspect the engine has been overheated. In fact, I'd
say check the block deck and head surfaces every time you have the
head off an engine. Doesn't take long, saves a lot of grief later.
Oh, hang on, you don't even check piston to valve clearance when
modifying an engine. Carry on clown!
On 21/7/2026 4:31 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 20/07/2026 1:12 pm, Xeno wrote:
There are real issues with that diagnosis.
On 20/7/2026 10:43 am, Noddy wrote:
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this
wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't
just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen
way worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty
good.
the block deck as well as the head in the case of head gasket
failure. More so if you suspect the engine has been overheated. In
fact, I'd say check the block deck and head surfaces every time you
have the head off an engine. Doesn't take long, saves a lot of grief
later.
Oh, hang on, you don't even check piston to valve clearance when
modifying an engine. Carry on clown!
Explain
On 20/07/2026 12:56 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 19/07/2026 9:17 pm, Xeno wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if thisStandard procedure Darren, check the head, check the block, so what?
wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't
just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
He thinks he's onto something new... well, it's new to him anyway.
Seen it *many* times. Just trying to help the less experienced. Like
you, plastic man.
All the gear, no idea - sums him up perfectly.
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch in
26 minutes :)
On 21/07/2026 4:48 pm, Xeno wrote:
1) Why didn't it fail under stress on the dyno?
On 21/7/2026 4:31 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 20/07/2026 1:12 pm, Xeno wrote:
There are real issues with that diagnosis.
On 20/7/2026 10:43 am, Noddy wrote:
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this
wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't >>>>>>> just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen
way worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty >>>>> good.
the block deck as well as the head in the case of head gasket
failure. More so if you suspect the engine has been overheated. In
fact, I'd say check the block deck and head surfaces every time you
have the head off an engine. Doesn't take long, saves a lot of grief
later.
Oh, hang on, you don't even check piston to valve clearance when
modifying an engine. Carry on clown!
Explain
2) How did it get through practice and prior laps?
3) Why weren't any of the other valves damaged at all?
4) Why did it break so far up the stem?
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote:
On 21/07/2026 4:48 pm, Xeno wrote:
1) Why didn't it fail under stress on the dyno?
On 21/7/2026 4:31 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 20/07/2026 1:12 pm, Xeno wrote:
There are real issues with that diagnosis.
On 20/7/2026 10:43 am, Noddy wrote:
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this >>>>>>>> wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't >>>>>>>> just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen
way worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty >>>>>> good.
the block deck as well as the head in the case of head gasket
failure. More so if you suspect the engine has been overheated. In
fact, I'd say check the block deck and head surfaces every time you
have the head off an engine. Doesn't take long, saves a lot of grief >>>>> later.
Oh, hang on, you don't even check piston to valve clearance when
modifying an engine. Carry on clown!
Explain
The dyno didn?t have a con rod straight.
2) How did it get through practice and prior laps?
Wasn?t pushed quite as hard.
3) Why weren't any of the other valves damaged at all?
Only one valve had insufficient clearance, million reasons why that is possible. Only one valve got the tap.
4) Why did it break so far up the stem?It broke right where I expected it to break and that was at the hottest
point - right at the beginning of the fillet.
Also, contrary to Darren?s bullshit that it wasn?t the interference engine
- it was and he posted the photographic evidence to confirm it.
On 20/07/2026 12:56 pm, Clocky wrote:
On 19/07/2026 9:17 pm, Xeno wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if thisStandard procedure Darren, check the head, check the block, so what?
wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't
just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
He thinks he's onto something new... well, it's new to him anyway.
Seen it *many* times.
you, plastic man.
All the gear, no idea - sums him up perfectly.
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch in
26 minutes :)
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
On 22/07/2026 1:23 am, Clocky wrote:
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
Prove it.
On 22/7/2026 8:06 am, Noddy wrote:
On 22/07/2026 1:23 am, Clocky wrote:
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
Prove it.
I'd like to see him at least try and prove it but I won't hold my breath waiting.
More than likely the "26 minutes" refers to the time it takes unbolt the
old clutch from the flywheel, give the flywheel a clean, inspect the
spigot bush/bearing then bolt on and align a new clutch and doesn't
include remove/refit the gearbox and driveshaft.
On 22/07/2026 1:23 am, Clocky wrote:
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
Prove it.
On 22/7/2026 8:06 am, Noddy wrote:
On 22/07/2026 1:23 am, Clocky wrote:
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
Prove it.
I'd like to see him at least try and prove it but I won't hold my breath waiting.
More than likely the "26 minutes" refers to the time it takes unbolt the
old clutch from the flywheel, give the flywheel a clean, inspect the
spigot bush/bearing then bolt on and align a new clutch and doesn't
include remove/refit the gearbox and driveshaft.
On 22/07/2026 1:23 am, Clocky wrote:
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
Prove it.
On 21/7/2026 5:58 pm, Xeno wrote:
Keithr0 <nothing.to.see@here.com.au> wrote:I must add; The last photo of a valve head that Darren posted wasn't
On 21/07/2026 4:48 pm, Xeno wrote:
1) Why didn't it fail under stress on the dyno?
On 21/7/2026 4:31 pm, Keithr0 wrote:
On 20/07/2026 1:12 pm, Xeno wrote:
There are real issues with that diagnosis.
On 20/7/2026 10:43 am, Noddy wrote:
On 20/07/2026 10:05 am, Daryl wrote:Since you can't measure warpage *by eye*, you should *always* check >>>>>> the block deck as well as the head in the case of head gasket
On 19/7/2026 11:00 pm, Noddy wrote:
It'll run fine, and way better than what it would have if this >>>>>>>>> wasn't done. The point is if you're changing a head gasket don't >>>>>>>>> just suspect the head to be the culprit. Blocks can be too.
Nice job, just as well you checked it.
Any time I've got an engine apart I generally will, and I've seen >>>>>>> way worse than this. It's deceptive though. The block looked pretty >>>>>>> good.
failure. More so if you suspect the engine has been overheated. In >>>>>> fact, I'd say check the block deck and head surfaces every time you >>>>>> have the head off an engine. Doesn't take long, saves a lot of grief >>>>>> later.
Oh, hang on, you don't even check piston to valve clearance when
modifying an engine. Carry on clown!
Explain
The dyno didn?t have a con rod straight.
2) How did it get through practice and prior laps?
Wasn?t pushed quite as hard.
3) Why weren't any of the other valves damaged at all?
Only one valve had insufficient clearance, million reasons why that is
possible. Only one valve got the tap.
4) Why did it break so far up the stem?It broke right where I expected it to break and that was at the hottest
point - right at the beginning of the fillet.
Also, contrary to Darren?s bullshit that it wasn?t the interference
engine
- it was and he posted the photographic evidence to confirm it.
from that engine, the one with a longer bent stem. The one in the engine
was *embedded* into the piston and that is the one that quite clearly
broke at the beginning of the fillet taper. Not a lot of room in the combustion chamber at TDC. Another photo in that same grouping clearly showed valve cutouts in the pistons signifying an interference engine.
But that need not matter in any engine where the valve is not fully controlled by its spring since the valve will loft and/or float beyond
where it is prudent for it to be.
On 22/07/2026 6:06 am, Noddy wrote:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
On 22/07/2026 1:23 am, Clocky wrote:
On 20/07/2026 3:59 pm, Noddy wrote:
As opposed to some fucked up moron who thinks he can change a clutch
in 26 minutes :)
No "thinks" about it. I walked the walk while you collected ornaments
for your pissy little hobby shed.
Prove it.
Already have.
You've never even posted one bit of proof that you have even completed
an apprenticeship or worked in the trade.
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